Installation of a Ceiling Outlet for Multi-Level Ceilings
Back to the installation of the ceiling outlet. Find the center of the room (it is assumed that the chandelier will hang in the center) and use a compass (you can do it yourself: nail – rope – pencil) draw a circle with a diameter of 500-1000 mm (for a small room it is better to choose a smaller diameter, for a large one – larger).
Inside the first circle, which will be the outer face of the “washer” and the rim, draw another one with a radius of 100-150 mm less. This will be the inner edge of the side.
Prepare the profile by making cuts in it with sharp scissors for metal every 50-150 mm (depending on the radius of the bend). Thus, you will get something like an arched profile PA 60/27, but the desired length and curvature. Secure it with self-tapping screws along the marked lines to the main ceiling. When screwing the profile, make sure that it is attached not only to the drywall but also to the supporting profile of the main ceiling. Most importantly, each segment of this “arched” profile begins and ends on the supporting profiles of the main ceiling.
Cut two sets of strips of drywall with a width equal to the planned height of the outer and inner edges of the side (from the point of view of design, it is better to make them at different levels, for example, lower the inner circle 50-100 mm from the main ceiling, and the outer 120-150 mm ) After preliminary processing (perforation and moistening), screw the strips to the resulting circles from the “arched” profile. On the lower edge of the strips, set the exact same “arched” profile flush with the edge of the drywall. After this, you can proceed to line the PSL sheets with the bottom of the side. To do this, the entire “washer” is sheathed with drywall, the protruding edges of which are trimmed with a file on drywall and processed with a planer on drywall. Similarly, they make the inside of the side. Drywall for facing the inside of the rim is better to mark with a compass, to cut and process in advance, on the floor, and not on weight. When attaching it to the “arch” profile, screw the self-tapping screws 15-20 mm from the edge of the drywall.
Pay attention to the photo: in multi-level ceilings, the level difference does not have to be designed as a step with a 90 ° angle. It can be a plane located at any angle to the main ceiling. To do this, you need a corner connector for ceiling profiles.
The standard angles of the manufactured connectors are 45.90, 105, 135, 150 °. If necessary, such a connector can be made independently. To do this, take a section of the profile, make cuts on the sidewalls, bend it to the desired angle and fix the item with self-tapping screws for metal, rivets or the method of “notching with bending”.
In addition, the level difference in multi-level ceilings does not have to be connected at a right or other angle. Such a connection may have a concave (rarely convex) surface. To implement such a solution, a two-level ceiling frame with a step of 90 ° is mounted.
As you can see in the photo, the ends of the multilevel gypsum plasterboard ceilings are faced with bent strips of drywall that have undergone preliminary preparation (perforation and moistening).
Now that you know how to create a multi-level ceiling, you need to purchase the necessary tools and materials, and then get to work.